Sofitel Metropole Hanoi
A bed for the night in Vietnam
By Jeremy Atiyah
Published: 25 September 2005
The location
In the old town of
Hanoi, on a
quiet street, just a couple of minutes' walk from the central
Hoan
Kiem Lake.
It is to
Hanoi what the Raffles is
to
Singapore:
quite simply the classiest hotel in town. More than 100 years old, it was
already regarded as the best hotel in Indo-China during the time of French
rule. In the 1920s, guests included Somerset Maugham (who finished The Gentlemen
in the Parlour here) and Noël Coward, who was "not allowed out of the
hotel, as there was a revolution in progress". Later, Graham Greene, in
The Quiet American, said the hotel was populated by French officers and their
wives. (Today a Graham Greene cocktail at the Bamboo Bar, contains gin, dry
vermouth and cassis). Outside, the Metropole still resembles a rambling villa,
with a sleepy line of waiting bicycle rickshaws. Inside are dark wood, creaking
stairwells and photos of ancient Mandarins, and beautiful staff.
The USP
All the top people stay here - but you can often get a bargain room rate.
The comfort factor
Very high, although the emphasis is on understated colonial elegance, rather
than on vulgar
New World glitz. The 232 whitewashed
rooms have vintage furniture, shuttered windows and floor-to-ceiling curtains.
Finding chocolate truffles and meringues on your pillow, you will probably
dream that you are in
France.
The bathroom
A fine array of brightly coloured and subtle-smelling unguents await, possibly
to distract your attention from the bathroom itself, which is in need of
modernisation - the flapping shower curtain is not quite in keeping with the
five-star facilities.
The food and drink
The hotel contains two of the best restaurants in
Vietnam.
Prices are high by Vietnamese standards, but low for an international,
five-star hotel. The Beaulieu is a traditional French restaurant, which is as
old as the hotel itself and has an astounding wine list. From $28 (£16) a head
for a set three-course meal. The
Spice
Garden is an excellent Vietnamese
restaurant, where you can sample the dishes of old
Hanoi,
including items as humble as noodles and spring rolls. Set menus from $26 (£14)
per head.
The people
Rich tourists, jet-setters and conference delegates; I saw one group of
Russian oil-magnates and their bodyguards trying to stay sober in the
Spice
Garden. Also expect a steady stream
of prime ministers, presidents, royalty and movie stars.
Things to do
Join a one-day cookery course conducted by the chef of the Spice Garden
Restaurant. She starts at the market (travelling by bicycle rickshaw) and then
shows you how to put together some basic dishes such as sautéed pumpkin
branches with garlic,
Hanoi
deep-fried spring rolls and Vietnamese banana flower salad and marinated pork
grilled in bamboo. Otherwise, lounge in the Bamboo Bar by the pool while a
glamorous female pianist plays nearby. And, of course, beyond the front door
there's the whole of
Hanoi to
explore.
The access
Children welcome. No wheelchair access.
The damage
Doubles usually available for $130 (£72) per night.
The address
The Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen,
Hanoi, Vietnam
(0870-609 0961;
www.accorhotels.com/asia).
